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Selling guide

What are my golf clubs worth?

How to find the value of any used club in a minute, what moves it, and how to get the most for it.

Golfers remember the receipt. Buyers never see it. What your club is worth is what someone will pay for that exact club this week, which for most clubs is less than you hope and a good deal more than the trade-in counter offers.

Take the TaylorMade Stealth 2, the driver half the range wanted in 2023. A used one now has a target of $248. The SLDR was that driver in 2013; it’s down to $96. Same brand, same kind of club, and the only thing that really separates them is time.

The short answer

Your club is worth roughly what buyers pay for the same model, the same model year and the same spec, in similar condition, right now. Three things set most of that number: how old the model is, how many golfers want one, and the shape it’s in. Everything else is rounding.

The fastest way to get it is to type the club into ClubChecks, or paste a listing for the same club from anywhere. Our algorithm sets a target price for that exact club, roughly what a buyer will pay for one today, and shows every live listing beside it, so you can see the competition yours would face. It takes a few seconds and costs nothing.

What used golf clubs are worth, by type

The middle half of our target prices for each kind of club, across every model we’ve priced. A recent model from a big brand sits near the top of its range. A five-year-old one usually lands near the bottom.

ClubTypical used priceTypical oneModels priced
Drivers$155–$274$209250
Fairway woods$100–$192$141203
Hybrids$80–$147$113138
Iron sets$439–$715$589204
Wedges$62–$101$81179
Putters$143–$288$185196

Valuing a whole set? Do it club by club, because the driver, the iron set and the putter carry most of the money. And don’t list a good set as one lot. Most buyers are hunting for one club, not eleven, so the same clubs nearly always bring in more one at a time. The exception is an older, complete set: as a starter set for a beginner it’s worth more together than apart, since nobody is searching for its 5-iron on its own.

How much golf clubs lose with age

Model year does more damage than any scratch. The big brands replace their drivers, woods and irons every year or two, and each launch knocks the previous model down a step. Here is the typical used target by the age of the model, from our algorithm’s prices today:

Club2025–26 models2023–24 models2021–22 models2018–20 models
Drivers$313$247$203$173
Fairway woods$208$180$161$120
Hybrids$180$140$113$80
Iron sets$829$649$573$511
Wedges$113$92$81$61
Putters$365$176$155$172

Drivers fall hardest and fastest. One from the last two model years is worth roughly twice one from six to eight years ago, and most of that drop happens early, while the next two models are still arriving. Then the curve flattens. A driver that has already lost half its value doesn’t have much further to go.

Iron sets are steadier. A set gives up about a third of its value over its first five years and then barely moves, partly because irons stay in a bag for a decade and partly because plenty of golfers are happy to play a generation behind.

Putters are the odd ones out. The newest models carry a premium that disappears the moment they’re replaced, and after that the value more or less stops falling; a few collectible lines even climb. Wedges break the rule from the other side. Grooves wear, so a two-year-old wedge that lived in bunkers can be worth less than a five-year-old one that didn’t.

Use the table as a guide, not a quote. Brand and model matter as much as age, and a popular three-year-old driver can be worth more than an unloved new one. For your club’s own number, check it by name.

First, find out exactly which club you have

Value is set model by model. “A TaylorMade driver” covers everything from $96 to $305, so before you check yours, pin down:

What moves the value up or down

Demand

The best-known models from the biggest brands hold their value best for a dull reason: there is always someone searching for one. A niche model can be a better club and still sit well below its age, because the buyers aren’t there.

Condition

Our targets are for a typical used club, the kind with ordinary wear. Here is how yours compares:

What’s included

An adjustable driver or wood needs its sleeve on the shaft; the wrench is a bonus. A headcover adds a little on most clubs and real money on collector putters. A head with no shaft is a different and much cheaper thing.

Shafts and grips

Don’t expect a premium aftermarket shaft to pay you back. Most buyers are paying for the head, and a shaft only adds value if it’s a well-known model in a common flex. Grips cut the other way: slick, worn grips are a cost the buyer has to cover, so they come straight off what the club will fetch.

Are my old golf clubs worth anything?

Usually tens of dollars, not hundreds. The RocketBallz was in every other bag in 2012; a used one has a target of $112. The Burner Superfast 2.0 sits at $96. Older iron sets and woods from forgotten lines can be worth less than it costs to ship them.

A few things buck that. Well-kept putters from the collectible lines can hold or even gain value, and a clean set from a respected forged line still finds buyers. Check before you assume a club is worthless.

And when it really is, it can still be useful. A complete older set makes a fine first set for a beginner or a junior. Many trade-in programs won’t take clubs past a certain age, but junior golf programs, school teams and thrift stores often will.

Trade it in or sell it yourself?

You can turn a club into money three ways, and each one trades effort against what you get.

OptionWhat you getEffortHow fast
List it yourselfClose to the targetPhotos, a listing, questions, shippingDays to weeks
Have it listed for youThe target, less a feeLowWeeks
Trade it inWell under the target, often as store creditNoneSame day

A trade-in quote is a store’s buying price. The store still has to clean the club, list it and wait for a buyer, so its offer sits well under what a buyer would pay you, and it often comes as credit rather than cash.

Our view: trade in anything with a target under about a hundred dollars, and anything you would otherwise never get around to listing. List the rest yourself. On a club with a $300 target, the gap between the trade-in offer and what a buyer pays is usually big enough to cover the hassle several times over. Whichever you choose, check the target before you accept, so you know what the convenience is costing.

How to price and list a used club

A simple rule. List at or just under the target and it should go quickly. List well above it and expect offers near the target, or a long wait.

Name it the way buyers search. Brand, model, model year, loft, flex, hand and condition, in that order: “TaylorMade Stealth 2 driver (2023), 10.5°, stiff, right-handed, very good.” Leave out the year or the flex and you lose the buyers filtering for them.

Photograph what buyers check. The face, the sole, the crown, the shaft label and the grip, in daylight, on a plain background, with any damage shown up close. Honest photos sell a club faster than good adjectives.

Count the shipping. $270 shipped beats $250 plus $30, every time.

Decide your floor before the first offer arrives. List right at the target and the offers will come in a little under it. Knowing your number in advance stops you taking the first lowball out of impatience.

Mind the calendar. A club’s value steps down when its successor launches. TaylorMade and Callaway release their new drivers in January, Titleist usually in late summer. If you’re upgrading, list the old club as soon as you’ve decided, not once the new model is in every store. More golfers are shopping in spring than in December, too.

Questions

How do I find out what my golf clubs are worth?

Identify the exact club first: brand, model, model year, loft, shaft and flex. Then check it on ClubChecks. Our algorithm gives a target price for that exact club, roughly what buyers pay for one today, and lists every live listing beside it. It’s free and takes a few seconds.

Is there a blue book for golf clubs?

Not an official one. Trade-in value guides list what a store will pay you, which is a buying price and sits below what a buyer would pay. A ClubChecks target is the other number: roughly what a buyer pays for that exact club today.

Do golf clubs hold their value?

Some do much better than others. Drivers lose value fastest, because every big brand replaces them every year or two. Iron sets fall more slowly, and putters hold their value best once they’re past their first couple of years.

How much should I sell my golf clubs for?

At or just under the target price for the exact club. That’s roughly what buyers pay, so it should go quickly. List well above it and expect offers near the target.

Are golf club trade-in values fair?

They’re fair for what they are: a quick, no-effort buying price, often paid as store credit. They sit well under what a buyer would pay you, so check the target first and decide whether the convenience is worth the difference.

How much is a used set of golf clubs worth?

Roughly the sum of its clubs, and usually less when listed as one lot. Value the driver, the iron set and the putter on their own first, since they carry most of the money.

When is the best time to sell used golf clubs?

Before the model is replaced, and early in the season. A club’s value usually steps down when its successor arrives, and more golfers are shopping in spring than in winter.

Targets right now

A few clubs other golfers checked recently. Each links to its price page.

More guides

Used prices by club